Ford Transit Customer Connection Points

Ford Transits come with 1 60A fused Customer Connection Points (CCP) as standard and up to 3x 60A may be fitted depending on vehicle configuration. If you are ordering a custom Transit you can get 3 CCPs by ordering the upfitter switches (option 67C).

If your Transit only has 1 CCP you can add the missing 2 by ordering kit part number BK2Z-14S411-A. CargoVanConversions has a good write up covering the installation process.

Customer Connection Points BEMM Diagram

Customer Connection Points diagram from the BEMM

For Gidget’s electrical system we are going to have a 1000W inverter (Magnum CSW1012) connected to the CCPs. But this inverter has a maximum continuous current rating of 113A which is greater than a single 60A CCP.

According to the Ford bulletin, Accessing Battery Power on Transit, if you need more current than 60A you can connect to the 3 CCP. It’s not clear in this document if that means the 3 CCPs can be connected in parallel or not. But based on the back and forth in this forum post I feel confident that you can combine the 3 CCP to form 1 CCP that has more current than 60A. So for Gidget, the 3 CCPs have been combined into 1 CCP and a 150A circuit breaker was added.

You could also just connect straight to the battery. I choose the combined CCP route and have had no issues so far.

Completed Install

Completed install of circuit breaker and custom cable combining all 3 CCPs




The first step was to cut out a square piece of 3/4″ AC plywood and paint it black. The 150A circuit breaker was then attached to the plywood with 3 wood screws.

Circuit Breaker Mounted to Plywood

Circuit breaker mounted to 3/4″ plywood

3M VHB tape was applied to the other side and then it was stuck on to the driver seat pedestal. VHB tape was chosen as there is nothing to screw into or bolt onto as all the fuses for the Transit electrical system are there.

3M VHB Tape

3M VHB Tape was applied to the back of the plywood square

Driver seat pedestal

The plywood and circuit breaker mounted to the back of the driver seat pedestal

Next a custom cable was made to combine the 3 CCPs into a single connection point.

3 to 1 Cable

Custom 3 to 1 cable

Closeup of 3 CCP Connections

Closeup picture of the side of the cable that connects to the CCPs

Closeup of custom cable

Closeup of the breaker side of the custom cable

The 3 lugs are attached to the CCP stud with a 5mm lock washer and nut. The studs seem delicate so I wouldn’t over torque them.

Closeup of the CCP

Cable connected to the CCP

Custom cable in place

Custom cable connected to both the CCPs and the circuit breaker

The CCP cover will no longer fit now that the cables have been connected. Using a Dremel I cut out 3 holes to allow the cover to snap back on.


Use a Dremel to modified the CCP cover to fit over the wires

CCP Cover

CCP cover fits over the cables once you make a couple of holes

I’m pretty happy with the final install. It turned out pretty clean and is a very functional use of the space.

Completed Install

Completed breaker and CCP install


  1. Reply
    Greg January 27, 2017

    Where did you connect the ground?

    I really like your web site. Thank You

    • Reply
      Matt January 27, 2017

      I’m grounding on the emergency brake assembly. There are a couple of holes that you can slip a bolt through.

  2. Reply

    […] did an excellent job of wiring his circuit breaker into the CCP! a link to his breaker install:…ection-points/ 2016 transit cargo 250 MR, LWB, 3.5 eco, 3.31 limited slip Michael Ophus is […]

  3. Reply
    Andrew April 10, 2017

    Hey Matt,

    I’ve got the single battery, 150A alternator Transit, and am currently planning my electrical system. I am leaning toward a simple setup of a relay between the starter and house batteries as a charge source (while driving) to supplement the solar charging. Maybe a Blue Sea Systems ACR or a DC to DC battery charger (supposedly those are a little “smarter” and provide the correct charge profile to AGM batteries). Would the CCP be the right place to tie in to the alternator? And I’m assuming to do that, and maximize the charge I can provide to the house batteries, that I should upgrade to the full 3 CPPs?

    Appreciate your thoughts.


    • Reply
      Matt April 11, 2017

      Since you don’t have the 3 CCPs I would just tie directly into the battery. Installing the extra CCP post seems like unnecessary work.

  4. Reply
    michael August 9, 2017

    So if I wanted to plug in my 12V ARB cooler and Solar Battery Generator, should I do it from the CCP or from 12v sockets in the dash?

    • Reply
      Matt August 9, 2017

      Depends on how much current the Solar will generate. In general, you don’t want to put “current producers” on the 12v sockets.

  5. Reply
    Michael August 13, 2017

    I suppose I wasnt clear – I’m sorry. If I wanted to charge my solar battery box (like Goal Zero) and run my ARB cooler, does this modification allow for 110V plug in to be used?

    I have the heavy duty alternator and dual batteries in my transit. Currently, I can charge the solar batter box via 12v in the dash and run the arb cooler via 12v in the dash.

    I guess what i am trying to ask is how much work is it to use the CCP as the source of power to plug in my battery box and my cooler – using 110 – instead of 12v.


  6. Reply
    Adam Orth November 9, 2017

    Thank you for this clear explanation. I couldn’t figure out how to connect to my CCP and your photos really helped me out. It turns out I only have one connection point, even though at first glance I thought I had all three. Once I realized that, how to connect became clear. I only need one currently, so I’m golden. Thanks again, you folks run an informative and super-useful site.

  7. Reply
    Derek November 15, 2017

    Thank you! This has been a huge help. It’s difficult to find examples of the CCP.

    How did you combine the 3 cables into 1 lug?

    • Reply
      Matt November 16, 2017

      I just use a much bigger lug that would just barely fit all 3 cables.

  8. Reply
    Kurt Paulson February 8, 2018

    Great write up and detailed photos. I was able to install my CCP no problem using this and cargoconversions link. Thanks!

    I am curious what you did with your power after the 150a breaker – how it is all hooked up, etc.

    Thanks again.

    • Reply
      Matt February 8, 2018

      I have been meaning to write more about our electrical system, I just haven’t had the time.

      But in short, after the 150a breaker is a 1000w inverter. That inverter is used to power a 2000w Magnum Charger/Inverter combo which charges my 400 AmpHour Lithium battery pack. My house battery is floating, meaning it’s not grounded to the chassis or connected to the negative terminal of the starting battery.

      • Reply
        Lucy February 11, 2018

        Your instructions are great. Thank you. What brand and where did you purchase your 400 AmpHour Lithium battery pack?

        • Reply
          Matt February 11, 2018

          I bought them from AMSolar ( Unfortunately they don’t sell the exact ones I bought from them anymore but the ones they sell now are better.

      • Reply
        Lucy February 11, 2018

        Also, will you be charging the house batteries from solar? If so where do you anticipate putting the switch between solar and alternator charging?

        • Reply
          Matt February 11, 2018

          Yes, the house batteries are charged by both solar and via the alternator (via an inverter) when the car is running. There is no switch between the solar charger and the inverter/charger. Both are connected to the house batteries at the same time. They are smart enough to not conflict with each other.

          • Lucy February 11, 2018

            Great to hear, thanks for the info

  9. Reply
    Kurt Paulson February 9, 2018

    Thanks! Love to see more detail/pics if you get time. I want to do the same thing just smaller – house isolated from the truck.

    • Reply
      Lucy February 11, 2018

      Great to hear. Thanks for your info

  10. Reply
    Lucy February 18, 2018

    Hi again, Matt.
    So you have 2 inverters. One from the van battery and one from the house battery. Then you connected the van battery inverter to the house battery inverter to charge the house battery. Was there a particular reason you didn’t connect your van battery directly to the house inverter via an ML-ACR relay?

    • Reply
      Matt February 18, 2018

      Our house batteries are lithium batteries and they have special charging needs. I was afraid charging them via the alternator would damage them.

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