How-To Install A Swivel Seat Adapter
A swivel seat adapter allows your front factory seats to turn and face the back of the van. In such a small space being able to have one of us sit in the passenger seat and face the living area is crucial.
We bought the swivel adapter from SwivelsRus as that is the only provider in the US. These swivels are for the base level mechanical seats, not the 10-way power seats which we have. But this was the only option available so we bought it anyways with the hope we could make it work.
Tricia relaxing in our new swivel seat.
We wanted to install a swivel on the driver’s seat but the emergency brake and the 4×4 shifter would get in the way. Others have installed one on the driver’s seat by modifying the emergency brake. The level of modification didn’t seem worth it for us.
We are happy with the swivel, but it’s far from perfect. Once installed it adds 2.25″ to the seat height which isn’t an issue for us as we are both around 5’10”. Even if we raise it as high and almost as forward as it will go, it still wont rotate because the plastic shrouds hang low. So we had to add 0.5″ of washers between the seat rails and the top plate of the swivel adapter to raise it even more.
The swivel adapter requires 0.5″ of washers to raise the seat high enough so that it can actually swivel.
When the seat faces the rear the minimum height from the floor to the top of the seat is 15.5″. Picture shows the measurement when the seat was lowered as far as it will go. The swivel adapter and extra washers adds 2.25″ of extra height.
When facing forward the height from the floor to the seat is 15.5″.
Tools and Parts
To perform this modification you’ll need the following parts and tools:
- Swivel adapter from SwivelsRus ($374.00)
- Additional washers and bolts if you have the 10-way power seats (about $5)
- M8-1.25 x 45mm Zinc Plated Class 8.8 cap screws
- M8 zinc plated washers
- Socket wrench
- 7mm and 13mm sockets
- Torx T-40 socket
- Grinder with metal cutting disk
- Metal file
- Rust-Oleum black paint and brush (about $5)
You’ll need a few tools and possibly some additional hardware to install the swivel.
The swivel does come with instructions. The screws mentioned on the instructions are incorrect. It came with M8, not M10 screws.
Instructions
First thing you need to do is raise the seat all the way up and forward. Then you’ll need to remove the baby seat anchor, at least that’s what I think it’s for, with a grinder. The anchor is a U shape round bar welded to the top of the seat pedestal in the back. If you don’t remove this anchor the seat won’t swivel.
Get used to moving the seat forwards and backwards a lot during the installation as you’ll be doing it a lot.
The baby seat anchor needs to be removed otherwise the seat won’t swivel. Photo by BigDogAdventures.
Our neighbor helped us remove the baby seat anchor using a grinder.
If you use a grinder to remove the anchor you’ll be left with sharp edges that need to be filed down and painted to prevent future rusting.
After removing the baby seat anchor, remove the 2 rear bolts that hold the seat rails to the top of the pedestal. You’ll need a torx T-40 socket to remove the screws. Then move the seat as far to the rear as it will go and remove the front 2 screws. Next disconnect the wire harness under the seat by using a 7mm socket. Also detach the wire loom from the first 2 attachment points. The wires need enough slack to allow the seat to rotate. Just pull the attachments and the wire loom will come out.
Using a torx T-40 bit socket remove the rear screws.
Move the seat back and then remove the front 2 screws.
Use your T-40 socket to remove the factory screws.
To disconnect the wiring harness use a 7mm socket to unscrew it and then just pull it off.
Move the seat out of the way while leaving the seat belt connected to the B pillar. Then place the swivel adapter on the seat pedestal. Now using the 4 screws you just removed, attach the swivel. You’ll need to rotate the top plate of the swivel to access the screw heads with your socket.
Moving the passenger seat out of the way can be done by a single person if needed. If you have the non-power seats you should take this opportunity to remove the yellow jack as you’ll no longer have access to this area once you’re done with the swivel install.
One person can move the seat.
Place the swivel adapter on the seat pedestal with the red latch facing the front of the vehicle.
Rotate the swivel ~45° to access the screw heads.
Rotate the swivel to access the screw holes.
Next place the seat back on the swivel and line up the screw holes. If you have a non-powered seat you can now attach the seat to the top plate of the swivel using the provided hardware. If you have the powered seats it won’t be able to swivel as the plastic shroud hits the top of pedestal.
Set the seat on top of the swivel adapter top plate.
Once you place the seat on the swivel adapter line up the holes.
If you have the 10-way power seats you won’t be able to swivel even when the seat is in the highest position.
We thought about cutting the plastic, but there are small metal bars attached to the back. The seat switches might be in the way. And getting a clean cut on the curved plastic would have been impossible given our tools and experience. So we opted to raise the seat 0.5″ using washers and longer screws. Make sure the longer screws are at least class 8.8 screws as that is what comes with the swivel.
To add the washers we lined up the seat on the top of the swivel top plate and then fed the screws through the holes. Next we tilted the back of the seat forward and slid the washers into place between the seat rails and the swivel top plate, and fed the screws back through the holes one at a time. The nut was then added and loosely screwed into place. The seat was then moved backwards and repeated on the front, tilting the seat towards the back.
To allow the seat to rotate we used washers between the top plate of the swivel and the seat rails to raise it just enough.
7 washers and longer screws raises it just enough.
The swivel adapter adds 1.75″ and the washers add 0.5″. Total additional height is 2.25″.
Once we verified we added enough washers we tightened everything down.
Once the back screws have been tightened move the seat back and tighten the front screws.
Once you have everything tightened down take it for spin and make sure nothing is hitting. If you have the power seats you’ll need to raise the seat as high as it will go and almost all the way forward before rotating.
Tricia relaxing in our new swivel seat
Now that you have verified the seat swivels you just need to do some finishing touches. Move the seat forward and file the sharp edges that the grinder left behind when you cut off the baby seat anchor. Next paint the bare metal spots left behind. And finally, once the paint dries, place the carpet under the swivel adapter, but on top of the jack.
We used a metal file to soften the rough edges left by the grinder when cutting off the baby seat anchor.
Use a metal file to smooth out any sharp edges.
After removing all the sharp edges we painted the bare metal with black Rust-Oleum paint.
Once the paint has dried we slid the carpet piece back in.
The install took us half a day, but a lot of that time was playing with cameras and making a couple of trips to the hardware store. If we weren’t taking pictures and had all the hardware on hand we could have finished it in about 2 hours.
The yellow thing in the last couple of pictures above is the jack. It is still possible to access the jack with the swivel installed if you have the power seats. Just move the power seats as far forward and as high as it will go and then you’ll have enough clearance to finagle the jack out of the center hole. If you have the non-power seats you’ll need to move the jack elsewhere.
Another thing to watch out for is the outer diameter of the washer that sits on top of the seat rails. If it’s too big it will not provide enough clearance for the seat rail to easily move all the way forward or backward.
If the washer that sits in the seat rail is too large it will not let the seat move forward and backward smoothly.
The washer that came with the swivel adapter is just slightly too large. The rail can still pass but you can hear the motor has to work harder once the rail starts moving past the washer.
I travel alone and would consider keeping the seat facing to the interior more or less constantly. Is this possible?
Yes it is possible but it might obstruct your side view mirror.
Thanks
Does the swivel add any wobble to the seat? I mean, does the seat rock about do to the tolerances in the moving parts of the swivel?
Nice site, thx.
Yes, there is some added wobble. Not noticeable unless you grab the seat and shake it.
What about having the seatbelt attached to the side of the (passenger) seat? I’m assuming the seat only swivels one way (to the left as you are sitting in the seat) and that the seat belt is dragged around as you swivel the base? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great tutorial
You can rotate it in either direction. The seat belt is long enough to hook it behind the seat.
My dad did this to his van and ended up twisting the belt so bad the belt can no longer be used. I would rotate the seat one way only to avoid this
thanks!
Matt..
Great write up. I just ordered a swivel for our Ford Transit conversion. Looking at the seat the other day while doing other work, it looks like there is not much clearance to the door and structural pillar. The geometry in my head made it look like it will run into the structural pillar or door and not swivel. Do you need to put the seat in a particular position to make it work, forward or back or with the door open etc. Obviously you can’t have the back reclined but otherwise do you have to adjust position to clear the door/structural pillar?
You need to move the seat forward and as heigh as it will go.
Thanks for the detailed infirmation. I just installed same swivel. Went very easy. The metal hoop can be readily removed with manual hacksaw, no need to grind inside the van. The jack CAN be removed, with the swivel in place, with the manual seats. I tried it, just lifts out the large hole in the center of the swivel plate.
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would this seat swivel be compatible with my 2011 ford transit connect? or only the transits? The Connect is a bit smaller than the original Ford Transit.
I’m not really familiar with the Transit Connect. It’s basicly a different vehicle. The only thing in common between the Transit and Transit Connect is the name.
Great write up! Any idea if this swivel offered at Eurocampers would fit the 10-way powered seats? My guess would be the wiring harness wouldn’t fit through the center hole:
http://www.eurocampers.com/2015–on-Ford-Transit-Full-Sized-Van-Front-Passenger-Seat-Swivel-Adapter–Not-for-suspension-seats-_p_1534.html
Thank you!
The hole in that swivel appears to be way too small to fit the cable connector on the 10 way seats. The only way you could make that swivel work is probably if you cut the cable and then joined it back together.
Thanks for the detailed write up, I installed my swivel tonight and all went smooth.
Just thinking out-loud here, can you remove the seat and turn it around and reattach for a rear facing seat application? I plan to be in one spot for like a week or two at a time, and it sure would be nice if it could be bolted down in reverse and not have to pay for a swivel.
What’s your thoughts?
Thank you in advance.
Steve
Yes, you could remove the 4 bolts and 1 screw and reverse the seat and re-attach it facing the other way. Probably take 20 minutes once you have done it a few times.
Matt,
I’m traveling in a converted 2015 Ford Transit van might you suggest a shop where I could have the swivel installed.
Thanks,
Jim
Hmm not sure, I would check VanCompass and Agile Offroad.
What part of the country?
Have a modified Grand caravan, with a 10″ lowered and seat that is removable, on wheels once unlocked from track…
Being a minivan, not sure there is room to swivel the seat (unless I unlock the seat from floor, roll it back into the middle of the van, swivel the seat and roll it back and lock it down…
Hey, Would you recommend getting the 2 way seats instead of 10 way heated seats? Seems much easier with the swivel but again we would miss heated seats?
Either should be fine. Really depends on what you want, both seats can be made to swivel.
Well executed article and great photo’s, will be doing same to my Sprinter soon but intend to do both seats, with the amount of washers used to gain required swivel height you may very well be able to do your drivers seat and not have the hand brake clearance worries, I have also seen a simple metal plate for lowering the hand brake assembly, just my thoughts. Vern . Australia.
Can the driver seat be done as well on the Ford Transit?
Yes, but you have to lower or move the emergency break.
What about rear view mirror vision obstruction by seat in reverted position
Side view mirror is obstructed. I have never checked the rear view mirror. I have never driven the van with the seat facing backwards.
I recently ordered the same swivel. Unfortunately I found out from a email after I ordered (not the website) that the business is relocating and will be down for a week so they won’t answer emails. How long did it take for you to get your swivel and did you get a tracking number for the delivery? Also, did your passenger seat have a rear plastic shroud around the back of the base? Mine has and I can’t figure out how it is removed…
I don’t think we got a tracking number, it just showed up eventually. No, we didn’t have any plastic shroud on the back.
I have a Class C..Ford Chassis. Would this work on passenger seat? Thanks
MsPat
No idea. I have never seen the Chassis version in person. Maybe email the manufacture ¯\(°_o)/¯ ?
I recently installed the SwivelsRUs on the passenger side of my 350 Transit Passenger van that I converted to a camper. Super easy if you don’t have power seats. It added a ton of usable space as well as a comfy recliner to the camper…. It scrapes against itself a bit when turning, but is very solid and I think a must have for any Transit conversion.
what are the dimensions of the plate ?
Just curious are the switches you have on your center counsel a factory option or did you install those. If you did install those switches what information can you spare on them because they look great like they belong there. Awesome seat install also. Its a good idea and your information will save time when I do that.
Switches came from the factory.
Hi,
Great, useful publication. I’m currently having my transit custom limited ‘15 plate converted. Are there any issues putting a swivel on the double passenger seat with it being a heated seat?
I’m not sure what the double passenger seat is.
Hi, it’s the front passenger which is double seated. It’s a heated seat so concerned that having it turned into a swivel seat would interfere with the heating system.
Thanks for that write up.
Can you access the space under the passenger seat and remove the jack?
Steve
Yes, but barely. You have to move an very delicate pattern to get it in and out.
i bought a transit 250 med roof with san already installed swivel i cant get jack out from under seat. it look like i have to take apart and remove jack and relocate. anyone else have this problem