Ford Transit Customer Connection Points
Ford Transits come with 1 60A fused Customer Connection Points (CCP) as standard and up to 3x 60A may be fitted depending on vehicle configuration. If you are ordering a custom Transit you can get 3 CCPs by ordering the upfitter switches (option 67C).
If your Transit only has 1 CCP you can add the missing 2 by ordering kit part number BK2Z-14S411-A. CargoVanConversions has a good write up covering the installation process.
Customer Connection Points diagram from the BEMM
For Gidget’s electrical system we are going to have a 1000W inverter (Magnum CSW1012 – Ebay affiliate link) connected to the CCPs. But this inverter has a maximum continuous current rating of 113A which is greater than a single 60A CCP.
According to the Ford bulletin, Accessing Battery Power on Transit, if you need more current than 60A you can connect to the 3 CCP. It’s not clear in this document if that means the 3 CCPs can be connected in parallel or not. But based on the back and forth in this forum post I feel confident that you can combine the 3 CCP to form 1 CCP that has more current than 60A. So for Gidget, the 3 CCPs have been combined into 1 CCP and a 150A circuit breaker was added.
You could also just connect straight to the battery. I choose the combined CCP route and have had no issues so far.
Completed install of circuit breaker and custom cable combining all 3 CCPs
Parts
- 3M VHB Tape
- 6 AWG flexible welding cable
- 6 AWG Heavy-duty Lugs with a 1/4″ Screw Size Ring
- 2/0 AWG Heavy-duty Lugs with a 5/16″ Screw Size Ring
- 1″ diameter heat shrink
- 1/2″ diameter heat shrink
- 150A Circuit Breaker
- Scrap piece of 3/4″ AC plywood
- Black gloss paint
- 3 wood screws
- 3 5mm lock washers
- 3 5mm hex nuts
Tools
- Hydraulic crimper
- Dremel
- Various wrenches and screwdrivers
Instructions
The first step was to cut out a square piece of 3/4″ AC plywood and paint it black. The 150A circuit breaker was then attached to the plywood with 3 wood screws.
Circuit breaker mounted to 3/4″ plywood
3M VHB tape was applied to the other side and then it was stuck on to the driver seat pedestal. VHB tape was chosen as there is nothing to screw into or bolt onto as all the fuses for the Transit electrical system are there.
3M VHB Tape was applied to the back of the plywood square
The plywood and circuit breaker mounted to the back of the driver seat pedestal
Next a custom cable was made to combine the 3 CCPs into a single connection point.
Custom 3 to 1 cable
Closeup picture of the side of the cable that connects to the CCPs
Closeup of the breaker side of the custom cable
The 3 lugs are attached to the CCP stud with a 5mm lock washer and nut. The studs seem delicate so I wouldn’t over torque them.
Cable connected to the CCP
Custom cable connected to both the CCPs and the circuit breaker
The CCP cover will no longer fit now that the cables have been connected. Using a Dremel I cut out 3 holes to allow the cover to snap back on.
Use a Dremel to modified the CCP cover to fit over the wires
CCP cover fits over the cables once you make a couple of holes
I’m pretty happy with the final install. It turned out pretty clean and is a very functional use of the space.
Completed breaker and CCP install
Where did you connect the ground?
I really like your web site. Thank You
I’m grounding on the emergency brake assembly. There are a couple of holes that you can slip a bolt through.
You don’t know how much I use your posts and a few other people’s in building my Ford Transit home. Thank you. For being the trail blazer. I was hoping you can keep me from making a mistake. I know Ford has specific grounding points that we are supposed to use. I have set up an inverter charger with a battery bank in a cabinet behind the drivers seat. I have a hot lead coming out of the CCP points on the left side of the drivers seat to a circuit breaker just like you did, then to the inverter. I need to have a negative lead go to a grounding point from the inverter as well. The diagram of transit grounding points isn’t too detailed. It seems there are 2 between the front seats. Photos attached. The one under the mat isn’t as convenient as the one on the bracket holding the emergency brakes assembly. Is that the one you are talking about. Is that a bonafide grounding point. ?? I dont know why mine is rusty looking. Is yours? I will sand it shiney if I use that for grounding.
I have been grounding with on the ebrake bracket for over 2 years without issues. Not sure if that makes it “bonafide” but it has been working flawless for me. Mine is rusty too but is working just fine.
How did that connection work out? Mine is also rusty too. I’ve only got the one CCP hot connection and wanna know where to ground easily.
Working perfectly fine.
[…] did an excellent job of wiring his circuit breaker into the CCP! a link to his breaker install: http://moreysintransit.com/ford-tran…ection-points/ 2016 transit cargo 250 MR, LWB, 3.5 eco, 3.31 limited slip Michael Ophus is […]
Hey Matt,
I’ve got the single battery, 150A alternator Transit, and am currently planning my electrical system. I am leaning toward a simple setup of a relay between the starter and house batteries as a charge source (while driving) to supplement the solar charging. Maybe a Blue Sea Systems ACR or a DC to DC battery charger (supposedly those are a little “smarter” and provide the correct charge profile to AGM batteries). Would the CCP be the right place to tie in to the alternator? And I’m assuming to do that, and maximize the charge I can provide to the house batteries, that I should upgrade to the full 3 CPPs?
Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks
Andrew
Since you don’t have the 3 CCPs I would just tie directly into the battery. Installing the extra CCP post seems like unnecessary work.
So if I wanted to plug in my 12V ARB cooler and Solar Battery Generator, should I do it from the CCP or from 12v sockets in the dash?
Depends on how much current the Solar will generate. In general, you don’t want to put “current producers” on the 12v sockets.
I suppose I wasnt clear – I’m sorry. If I wanted to charge my solar battery box (like Goal Zero) and run my ARB cooler, does this modification allow for 110V plug in to be used?
I have the heavy duty alternator and dual batteries in my transit. Currently, I can charge the solar batter box via 12v in the dash and run the arb cooler via 12v in the dash.
I guess what i am trying to ask is how much work is it to use the CCP as the source of power to plug in my battery box and my cooler – using 110 – instead of 12v.
=)
Thank you for this clear explanation. I couldn’t figure out how to connect to my CCP and your photos really helped me out. It turns out I only have one connection point, even though at first glance I thought I had all three. Once I realized that, how to connect became clear. I only need one currently, so I’m golden. Thanks again, you folks run an informative and super-useful site.
Adam,
I also have only 1 hot CCP ( 60A)— how did you wind up connecting? ddid you run your positive from your single CCP to a circuit breaker and then to the B2B charger? What did you found to?
Thank you! This has been a huge help. It’s difficult to find examples of the CCP.
How did you combine the 3 cables into 1 lug?
I just use a much bigger lug that would just barely fit all 3 cables.
Great write up and detailed photos. I was able to install my CCP no problem using this and cargoconversions link. Thanks!
I am curious what you did with your power after the 150a breaker – how it is all hooked up, etc.
Thanks again.
I have been meaning to write more about our electrical system, I just haven’t had the time.
But in short, after the 150a breaker is a 1000w inverter. That inverter is used to power a 2000w Magnum Charger/Inverter combo which charges my 400 AmpHour Lithium battery pack. My house battery is floating, meaning it’s not grounded to the chassis or connected to the negative terminal of the starting battery.
Your instructions are great. Thank you. What brand and where did you purchase your 400 AmpHour Lithium battery pack?
I bought them from AMSolar (https://amsolar.com/). Unfortunately they don’t sell the exact ones I bought from them anymore but the ones they sell now are better.
Also, will you be charging the house batteries from solar? If so where do you anticipate putting the switch between solar and alternator charging?
Yes, the house batteries are charged by both solar and via the alternator (via an inverter) when the car is running. There is no switch between the solar charger and the inverter/charger. Both are connected to the house batteries at the same time. They are smart enough to not conflict with each other.
Great to hear, thanks for the info
Hi Matt
I’m feeling and alone since finding your site. I will I replicate your 3 60A into 180A with 150 A breaker. The 1000w inverter supplying power for the 2000w charger/inverter threw a little bit. How does the charger tie into the lithium iron batteries and how many do you have. Next question is to ask is your not running the engine every and you have access to shore power how can you use sp to charge and perhaps have it as the preferred method of lighting things up. Is there a type of switch to be used.
Thanks! Love to see more detail/pics if you get time. I want to do the same thing just smaller – house isolated from the truck.
Great to hear. Thanks for your info
Hi again, Matt.
So you have 2 inverters. One from the van battery and one from the house battery. Then you connected the van battery inverter to the house battery inverter to charge the house battery. Was there a particular reason you didn’t connect your van battery directly to the house inverter via an ML-ACR relay?
Our house batteries are lithium batteries and they have special charging needs. I was afraid charging them via the alternator would damage them.
Ok, thanks for the reply. One more question (probably not the last one:-)) I noticed the 180amp wire from the 3 custom point connections is attached to one pole of the circuit breaker. When you connect the 1000w inverter to the breaker…how does that work? Is there a positive and a negative wire from the inverter? If so, which wire goes where?
Positive of the inverter goes to the circuit breaker. Negative goes to chassis ground.
Matt, I just received my 2000w Magnum Charger/Inverter comb. I understand how the battery connects to it and how the AC out installs but am a little unclear how the solar and 1000W invert both connect to the AC in. Would you elaborate on that setup, please?
The solar has its own charger and connects directly to the house battery bank.
I’m slowly working on an electrical post that will go in more detail.
Thanks, I’m looking forward to it.
Boy lots of questions for you here. I feel a bit badly adding my own, but appreciate whenever you can get around to it.
I’ve got the Upfitter Switch option with the three CCPs, and heavy duty alternator, too. Van due to me in mid March.
Question about fuses and the 150Amp circuit breaker:
1) Do each of the three CCPs have a separate 60Amp fuse?
2) I understand your 150Amp breaker is to limit the draw on the CCPs to be below the 180Amp threshold, as I understand those 60Amp fuses are a bother to replace. But this means a 140Amp surge could go to the three CCPs. Is it simply the nature of the 3-way split that this surge will be divided equally three ways and not load up one CCP more than 60 Amps and blow the Ford fuse?
Much thanks. Dave
1) Yes, each have a 60 amp fuse installed at the factory. And as you say they are hard to get at should one blow.
2) The short cable paths from each CCP are the same length which effectively means they are all the same resistance. If we assume they are the same resistance the current flows equal across all 3 CCPs. Yes, a surge will be divided up among the 3 equally and not load one CCP.
Just wanted I wanted to hear. Thanks Matt.
If I am only going to utilize two of the CCPs to connect to my Sterling BB1260 what size lug on would work to combine the two 6AWG wires into a single lug?
0/2 AWG might work or a 0 AWG lug. There is a good chart at https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm. I just bought multiple lugs and test fitted them.
Hi Jason, I have a dual battery, dual alternator T250. I will be installing a Sterling BB1260 charing via Victron 3000w inverter to 5 Battle Born LiFo batteries. Would you share your pics, wire gauge and fuse you used? Appreciate your help.
Matt, did you use the Magnum CSW-TS15 Transfer Switch 15 Amp to connect the 1000W inverter to the AC in of the 2000W inverter?
Thanks for your help!
No I did not. The AC coming out of the 1000W inverter is connected directly to the Magnum MS2012 2000W Inverter/Charger. But the 1000W inverter only turns on when the engine is on. The auto-on feature requires an extra pigtail accessory from Magnum called CSW-ISW.
Thanks, and what kind of cabling did you use to connect the 1000W inverter’s GFCI outlet directly to to the MS2012?
You have been such a help, thank you in advance. Just trying to understand
I used SJOOW 10/3 and 12/3 cable which I bought by the foot from Home Depot, but you can also buy it from Amazon. The 10 in “10/3” refers to the gauge of the wire which dictates how much current it can carry. The 3 in “10/3” refers to the number of conductors in the wire assembly.
I just put an 3 pronged end on the side of the cable that plugs into the 1000W Inverter and hard wired the other end through a circuit breaker to the 2000W Inverter/Charger.
Excellent! Thank you
Matt, what brand/size of circuit breaker did you use for the 10/3 SJOOW cable? Thanks for your time.
I used a Bluesea A-Series 15A Single Pole Circuit Breaker which I bought at http://amzn.to/2HLICsY . I highly recommend using Bluesea products whenever you can.
Thanks
Matt, at the risk of asking an incredibly ignorant question on public forum, with this breaker can you leave the negative and ground wire of the 10/3 SJOOW cable uninterrupted since they are going to the neg and ground of the inverter?
So that the only wire that is cut is the positive that’s interrupted by the breaker.
Yes, that is how I did it.
Thanks
Hi Matt,
My 2017 Transit 250 has the single lead acid battery with the standard alternator. I am installing a CTEK combination of 250SA and Smartpass 120 solar controller with “BtoB”, 200 watts solar, and a 200 amp hour AGM battery. Mostly everything is wire (positive PV and house battery ground not connected), except two things. I need to wire the starter battery positive to the “Alternator in” connection on the 250SA/Smartpass shared connection. Also, I need an “Ignition on” (low current) 12volt signal to hook up to the 250SA, so it can coordinate with the smart alternator.
From reading the other questions here, it seems I should just get my high current 12 volts directly from the ignition battery under the driver’s seat, and not use the CCP. Would you agree and how would you recommend to make this connection? Should I just tap right onto the battery post with a ring connector and wire? CTEK recommends a 300 amp fuse between the alternator and the CTEK alternator input, which I have already installed along with a cut off switch. Also, can you direct me to a source for an “ignition/engine on” 12volt signal for my low current signal?
Thanks you for your very thorough and understandable website!
Chris
The Transit doesn’t have a positive ignition/engine on 12V signal. But you can make one: http://moreysintransit.com/engine-on-signal-via-ford-transit-vehicle-interface-connector/.
i would like to run a cable to the back of my van, with a anderson plug on the end. the other lead will have anderson plug too with croc clips to jump start things. what size fuse would be best to use and where can i run it from
Mick, first you would need to figure out your max current draw is going to be. Once you know that you can size your wire. And then finally you can pick a fuse to protect your wire from ever burning up.
hi thanks for getting back to me. I take it you mean current draw you mean what i will be jump starting ? it will not be much as i only carry a pressure washer in the back that it will be that i will want jump starting when it goes flat.
it is only a small battery 1/2 the size of a car. If we go for the size of a transit battery then that will cover a lot in case. is this what you needed to know
Is the CCP connection only active when the vehicle is running? Load on the CCP when the van is off will not drain the house battery?
If I wanted to charge my AGM house battery can i connect a positive only to the CCP and positive on house battery?
CCPs are active all the time. Load on the CCP will drain the house battery if the van is off. You need to use a relay or some other mechanism to protect your van battery from being drained.
Or do I need to connect the CCP to the Solar Charge controller?
Hey Matt,
your site really is the most helpful one I’ve found, you’re the man! My transit has 1 CCP, before ordering the other 2, I was just wondering why you chose to use them rather than going straight to the battery? Also, If you get a chance it would be awesome to see a pitcure of the complete electrical system.
Thanks,
Ryan
No reason really, either option will work.
Do you cover the studs on the breaker? My kids play in the van a lot. Would it be safe to leave them uncovered?
I would cover them. If a toy with metal in it accidentally drops across the terminals you would blow a fuse or worst melt a wire somewhere in the chain. Even if you just cover them really good with electrical tape it would be better than nothing.
Sorry, another question, what size ground wire are you running to your e-brake?
I’m working through your steps. So far everything is working out except for putting the 3 6 AWG cables into the 2/0 AWG lug. I crimped mine with the 70mm die, the crimp looked great and was the correct size, but the cables fell out. So weird. I had to use the 50mm die to keep the cables from falling out. This over crimped the the lug but the cables are solid now. Seems like a 1AWG lug would have been perfect. I wonder if the 6 AWG welding cables I got we’re truly 6 AWG. They fit perfect in the 6 AWG lugs…weird. anywho. just thought you should know
Could you please explain why you went with the 1000W inverter instead of a B2B charger, which would be a more efficient way of charging the batteries? This is a decision I need to make but am not sure which way to go. With B2B charger instead of an inverter, AC would only be available from the house battery inverter/charger. What are the advantages and disadvantages of one versus the other?
Thank you
B2B chargers that support Lithium based battery banks were not available when I needed them in 2016. I think either option is fine. Pros of going with the 2 inverter approach is that you have a backup source of AC power should you need it. Cons of going with the 2 inverter approach is that you loose some efficiency going DC to AC to DC.
Great post, thanks. I am looking into using the CCP as a temporary (an future backup) source of power for 12 things, until I can afford my auxiliary batteries.
However, after reading your post and others on the web, I am still curious as to what is the best way to route the wires into the walls (to get towards the rear of the van). Do you have an tips on this? Do you go under the seat and under the van, or is there a trick to getting from the seat, to the drivers side wall?
Thanks!
Bryan
No real trick, I just run it on the floor into the first opening along the wall. My trashcan is in front of it so I never see it.
Thanks Matt. Will all this stuff, I guess I just need to dig in and try to find what works best. 🙂
I have some parts coming via Amazon today so I will try to hook up my fan tonight.
Wow!A Transit specific site. How I’ve been looking for you. Great info here, thank you for all the research and hard work. My transit (250amp alternator/dual battery) arrives in October so I can’t look but do assume that Ford has a battery isolator between those batteries, doesn’t seem like they would build a machine that would kill itself. So why not run a house battery (200a) in parallel with that one under the seat and go from there with the pos and neg bus bars, fuses,inverter, and the whole house load ? I’m going all AGM .
Thank you for your thoughts !
So to answer my own question : the 2019 transit comes with 2 CCP, 1 70A and 1 175A I think with the dual battery so can no longer bring 3 @ 60A CCP together to make 1 @ 180A. And cannot add another battery in parallel unless it is the same animal ie 80 or 75A. So to add a house battery : a fuse/isolator/fuse/battery to load is possible but the connections are not clear to me. The Ford system is smarter than me.
Anybody done this on a 2019 ?
Wonderful website we really appreciate the knowledge. I have a 2016 Transit with 1 60amp CCP but I am planning on on installing a Sterling Pro Battery Ultra that has 70 AMP input. I wanted to get the 60 Amp version but wasn’t available at the time. I have a 200 AH battery Bank (2X 100AH Lithium Battle Born batteries). In this situation can I just wire directly to the battery rather than installing additional CCP’S from Ford?
Thanks for your help!
My van is equipped with a wheelchair lift it’s using 2 of the ccp ports can I put this 3 wires on top to power a inverter?
I have a 2018 Transit w/single batt and 150A alt. I want to connect a Li-BIM 225 to help keep my 3 100AH BB batts charged when driving but I’m concerned about overheating the alt. The Li-BIM is to be connected to the starting battery positive post but Ford doesn’t want any extra items connected to the batt itself. I’ve installed the two extra CCP 60a connectors and was thinking I could connect directly to one of them but not sure if that would work correctly. The Li-BIM is also capable of using the house batteries to jump start the van if needed so would I need to splice 2 or all 3 CCPs together? Could really use some help, thanks.
Great write up. Thankyou.
I have one question, you may be able to answer.
Is the Ccp switched through the computer, or purely an extension of the battery terminals? If I ran some extra internal lighting off the bar, would they get cut out by eco mode protection, or could I in theorey run them until the battery is flat (without running the engine)
Hi Matt, maybe you can help me. I would like to install a 1000W inverter from the CCP like you did. I have a Kisae dc-dc charger that is already hooked up to the top terminal of the CCP. If I make a connection to the CCP like you did with the 3 cables will that affect the dc-dc charger. I have a lifeline 210ah battery as the house battery. 2 batteries under the drivers seat. What do you think would be the best way to hook up an inverter for running computer, small TV, etc. Thanks for your help. I have a 2017 130wb, med roof.
I have a 2017 transit with dual batteries and an AGM 210ah house battery which is charged by solar (180W) and aa Kisae 30A dc-dc charger. the kisae is attached to the top CCP. I would like to install a 1000W inverter similar to how you did using the CCP. If i use all 3 will that affect the dc-dc charger at all? Thanks for your help.
Great article. Very helpful.
I bought a used transit and the CCP cover is missing. I have spent hours searching for this part number, but can’t find it.
Does your cover have a part number on it?
This is the part number molded into the CCP cover on my 2016 Transit-350:
BK2T-14A175-BA-Cover
So you mounted the busman block onto wood and taped to the seat frame…..can you mount the busman block metal? The reason I ask is the block seem to be metal..and I don’t understand why it would not sort when cable is attached
Hi Great advice. I have a 2015 Transit 17 seat mini bus which we are converting. I am just about to start the electrics. You mention that you use the Ground point by the hand brake for your inverter but the House battries are floating ground ie; not connected to the van chassis. Is there an electrical reason for this or is it just personal preferance? Using the van chassis as ground will save a lot on running ground cables around the van. Your thoughts and advice would be much appriciated
Where did you place the DC+ wire that activates the unit?
Hey there, 2015 transit w 1battery and 150A alt. with one ccp here. Want to run 60A renogy b2b charger. Question: what if i change the factory 60A fuse to a 90A one and that is all. Any toughts?
Hi will my second alternator on my 2021 ford transit be able to charge my 6 x 200 Amp-hr lithium batteries.
Or should I get a NationStar 300 Amps alternator with Balmar controller to replace my existing ford alternator
I also have a secondary AGC battery – can the NationStar alternator charge both the lithium group and this battery or should I do something in the existing vehicle control and just have the engine alternator charge both AGC batteries